Meet the Chef at Leda: An Interview with Roman Alvarez

Roman Alvarez, the executive chef at Leda Italian Restaurant in Sayulita, was born and raised in the Mexican state of Chiapas. Ten years ago, he moved to Los Angeles, where he worked as sous-chef at Ado, a 5 star Italian restaurant in Venice Beach. He was invited by Paolo Cesaro to be a partner in the opening of Leda in Sayulita, and in October of last year, he moved here to embark on this new adventure and to be the executive chef.

So, first off, how did your passion for cooking develop?

By watching television and seeing cooking shows when I was a kid.

How did you get your start as a chef?

I basically got my start from the ground up. I got a job in Ado working with Paolo Cesaro and Antonio Muré, a Sicilian chef who is also a one star Michelin chef. I started by helping out in the kitchen, doing some chopping and preparing things, and I learned to cook from him.

What made you want to cook professionally in Sayulita?

Sayulita has a lot of people and a lot of tourists, and I wanted to bring some really great food, like our style of cuisine, to the town.

Are there any challenges to being a chef in Sayulita? What is harder and what is easier?

As an Italian restaurant, it’s harder to find Italian ingredients for the kitchen. However, it’s easier to find fresh fish, fresh vegetables, and fresh fruit.

How would you describe your culinary style?

Contemporary Italian.

What do you like about being the chef at Leda?

When Paolo Cesaro asked me to come down to Sayulita and be his partner in Leda, I was very excited for the opportunity to be involved in the opening of this restaurant. I like embarking on a new experience with Paolo and I also like being a part of a good, compact group – it’s like we are all family. The waiters, the cooks, the owners, everyone here at Leda get along great.

What are your favorite, fresh from Sayulita ingredients to use?

The fish. I especially like the beautiful, fresh tuna for the amazing Tartara de Tonno (tuna tartar) on a fresh arugula salad. Shrimp is also a favorite because of the special plates I like to create – there’s one called Mare e Monti (sea and earth), which is a seafood pasta with wild mushrooms and shrimp.

When creating a complete meal in Sayulita, what factors do you take into consideration?

I think about the flavor and the beauty of the plate at the same time. Making a dish as beautiful as it is delicious.

Do you have a signature dish? If so, what is it and how would you describe it?

Yes. The Tagliolini Rossi with quail meat and taleggio fondue. It’s a tasty combination that doesn’t follow the traditional line of Italian dishes by combining wild bird meat with a delicious northeast Italian cheese.

Will you share your most entertaining  “kitchen disaster” story?

Yes, just a few weeks ago the lights of the whole town went out and I found myself having to cook for the last two hours only by the dim light of candles. It was fun and challenging at the same time, and as it turned out, our guests loved it

What’s your favorite kitchen tool to use in Sayulita and why?

The pasta machine, because the preparation of pasta requires a nice relaxing environment. It’s like making art – like when a painter is painting.

If you could recommend one other Sayulita restaurant other than yours, what would it be?

Tierra Viva. The menu is very nice and the combination of different cooking styles makes it very interesting.

If you had to choose a last meal, what would it be?

The red beet pasta followed by a rare filet mignon with Barolo wine sauce on top, a famous Norden Italian full body red. And to end the delicious meal, I would enjoy a Tronchetto, my own creation of a double chocolate dessert. 

* Editor’s note: Roman generously let me try the Tronchetto at Leda and I can definitely see why he would choose this dessert! *